Waves are formed from low-pressure weather systems far out in the middle of the ocean. Much like dropping an object into a pool of water, waves spread out in a ripple-like motion and can travel for hundreds and thousands of miles before hitting land or shallow water. The latter is called ‘break’ and is what gets us surfers excited. 

Waves generally arrive in groups, or what surfers call ‘sets’. Sets come in all shapes and sizes: they can be anything from just seconds apart to as much as thirty minutes, usually arriving one after the other in threes, fours or more. Set waves are normally larger and more powerful than waves that come in between sets.

There are three different types of ‘waves’ or ‘breaks’. each defined by what causes the wave to crest and subsequently break. These are beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks. 

Beach Breaks

A wave is called a beach break if it has moved from deep to shallow water over a sandy seabed. These types of waves are the best type of waves for beginners surfers as they generally break with less force than a reef break and are a bit kinder to those trying to master riding them. Although beach beaks waves are usually short, the risk of serious injury is relatively low as you are falling onto a sandy bottom.

However, this doesn’t mean that all breach breaks are easy to surf or not powerful. Some of the largest, most powerful waves in the world are beach breaks, such as the big wave spot in Portugal, Nazare. A good example of a more common beach break is Hossegor in the Southwest of France, just down the road from out Moliets surf camp. 

Reef breaks

Reef breaks are where a wave breaks over a coral reef or rocky seabed. This type of wave is normally more suited to intermediate or advanced surfers as they often break quickly with more power than a beach break in shallower water. However depending on the shape of the reef and how quickly the depth of the water changes from deep to shallow they can produce waves of all shapes, sizes and power. Generally with most reef breaks, the waves will come from a deep in the ocean on to a shallow reef quickly creating a wave that requires a rather fast and butt clenching take off. A good example of this is the famous wave Pipeline in Hawaii. be careful when surfing reef breaks though, because if you fall off and hit the bottom, the coral is certainly more powerful than sand!

Point breaks

A point break is when a wave breaks onto and along a rocky point, creating a wave that travels in just one direction. Point breaks are often some of the longest and user friendly waves, some point breaks in Africa and South America can be surfed for over 3k. This is perfect for refining your surfing, as they usually create long rides with open wave faces, perfect for practicing turns and riding down the line. A good example of a famous point break is Anchor Point, which can be found in Morocco right next to our surf camp in Taghazout. Point breaks are perfect for intermediates who have mastered the bottom turn and can ride on a waves face going sideways. 

Did you know?

The longest wave ever ridden is the Brazillian river bore called Pororoca It was ridden for a staggering 10.1 kilometers (6.3 miles) by a local amateur surfer. Bet he has sore legs after that!