Picture yourself lounging on a sun-soaked beach, the sound of crashing waves in the background, and a captivating book in your hands. A surf holiday is the perfect time to indulge in the magic of reading and immerse yourself in surf-related literature. In this blog post, we’ll dive into five must-read books that will transport you to the fascinating world of surfing, inspiring and entertaining you throughout your surf holiday.
“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” by William Finnegan:
Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Biography, “Barbarian Days” takes you on an extraordinary journey through the life of acclaimed journalist and surfer, William Finnegan. With vivid prose, Finnegan shares his captivating stories of chasing waves across the globe, from his early days as a young surfer in California to his quest for perfect breaks in remote corners of the world. This memoir is a true masterpiece, delving deep into the allure of surfing and the profound impact it has on one’s life.
“The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean” by Susan Casey:
If you’re fascinated by the raw power and majesty of big-wave surfing, “The Wave” is a must-read. Susan Casey takes you on a thrilling journey into the world of massive waves, exploring the science behind them and sharing jaw-dropping stories of the surfers who chase these monstrous swells. With vivid descriptions and captivating storytelling, this book will leave you in awe of the sheer force and beauty of the ocean.
“Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art” by James Nestor:
While not solely focused on surfing, “Breath” is a fascinating exploration of the power of breath and its connection to human performance. Nestor delves into the science of breathing and uncovers how optimizing our breath can enhance our surfing experience. Discover the secrets of freediving, explore the connection between breath and mindfulness, and learn practical techniques to improve your breathing both in and out of the water. This book will deepen your understanding of the vital role breath plays in surfing and overall well-being.
“In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road” by Allan Weisbecker:
Embark on a wild adventure across Central America with Allan Weisbecker in “In Search of Captain Zero.” This captivating memoir follows Weisbecker’s quest to find his long-lost surfing buddy while navigating treacherous waves, shady characters, and the thrill of the unknown. With humor, suspense, and a touch of introspection, this book captures the spirit of adventure that drives many surfers to explore new frontiers.
“Surf Is Where You Find It” by Gerry Lopez:
Gerry Lopez, one of the most iconic surfers of all time, shares his wisdom and experiences in “Surf Is Where You Find It.” This collection of stories, insights, and reflections takes you on a journey through Lopez’s life as a surfer, from riding legendary waves in Hawaii to his exploration of surf culture around the world. Filled with beautiful photography and inspiring anecdotes, this book offers a profound perspective on the essence of surfing and the connection between man and the ocean.
On your next surf holiday, let the power of literature transport you into the captivating world of surfing. Whether you’re seeking memoirs of legendary surfers, tales of epic waves, or insights into the art and philosophy of surfing, these five must-read books will enrich your experience and deepen your appreciation for the sport. So, grab a book, find a cozy spot on the beach, and let the pages carry you away into a world of adventure, inspiration, and the timeless allure of riding waves.
